Milford Haven - 51°42’42” N 05°02’18” W

 When you have big plans that span big distances, it is best to keep an eye on the weather. As we would like to make our way up and through the Irish Sea and into western Scotland this spring, we need to move when there are no storms. After Christmas, an unusually long stretch of calm weather was hovering over the southwest United Kingdom … but following three to four days of gentle seas was a series of storms that were best avoided. We are also getting close to when we will leave Chinook to attend the Dusseldorf Boat Show and want a secure and safe marina to tie up. We decided to abandon our snug spot in Falmouth and sail ‘round to Wales.

In the Bristol Channel there are several less-interesting ports you can call into, but most have muddy water, a dearth of attractions and a long slog in and out of the Channel itself. We knew of a good marina north of the Channel … and that is where we are now.

The route around Lands End showing the Traffic Separation Scheme (TSS).  All vessels must travel in the direction indicated through them, or if crossing them, in a straight line perpendicular to the indicated direction.  We find it easier to just navigate around them. They are usually busy and hazardous. 

Around Lands End with Longships Lighthouse in the background.
And don't worry who is steering - Otto is very good at keeping us on course while we take selfies.

The trip around Lands End was uneventful. We left the dock at 03:00 in order to catch the all-important tidal current around Lizard and then Lands End. Winds were light (and had been for 36 hours before departing) - that meant for calm and gentle seas. As day broke, we sailed past the lighthouse at the Longships and then rounded north towards the Bristol Channel. The sails came down and Chinook’s engine started up because, of course, the wind was coming almost directly from our intended direction of travel.

Some people dread night passages, but we both like them. Chinook has a very protected cockpit, which makes it easy for whomever is on watch. We *can* do part of the watch from the navigation (nav) station, as Chinook is snug and warm below deck. There is good visibility - arguably better from below decks than the cockpit - when the foresail is in use. Proximity to the kettle for tea and hot chocolate is a big positive factor, too.

A view from down below as the sun sets - full visibility



One of the many advantages Milford Haven has is that it is protected by a lock - a way to keep it full of water when the tide drops. Chinook had never been through a lock before although we had been on other boats that had come through locks. We knew in theory what needed to happen: prepare to enter with fenders out on the appropriate side; wait for the “all clear” from the Lockmaster via VHF radio; enter the lock; tie up inside, as when the lock filled or drained there would be turbulence and Chinook would get tossed around otherwise; untie and pilot out. We were both somewhat confident that the procedure would go smoothly. Due to smooth seas across the Bristol Channel, we had made better time than expected and would be arriving in the dark to transit the lock for the first time. With our new-ish, unscratched, precious baby.

Gulp.

Kate pilots Chinook into the lock ... which looks MUCH smaller in real life.

We needn’t have been worried - it went smoothly, even though the lock seemed soooo short! Kate wanted the practice with dock maneuvers so she took Chinook in. When we saw the berth we had been assigned, she took a big breath, put her faith in the bow thruster and thanked the powers that be that there was no current to contend with. We squeezed into a spot beside a 33-footer and tied up without incident! Hooray!

Parked and minus the 33-foot yacht that was beside the berth when Kate brought Chinook in.

The marina is lovely, safe and close to a large supermarket and the train station (just a six minute walk). There are cafes and restaurants lining the marina basin and two walking/hiking paths that head in opposite directions from here. There is a leisure centre (swimming pool and gym), a few interesting pubs and a high street within an easy walk from here. The marina is very affordable, which is a treat after being on the south coast of England. We have also found a Survival at Sea course in the next village over, so we will plan to be here until the end of February to take part in that.

A marvellous spot under (uncharacteristically, for winter) blue skies  

Here is a little sailboat going out of the lock

Another view of the marina with big ol' Chinook against the far wall.  You can see the High Street up above the waterfront.

Milford Haven was a big fishing and whaling port, prior to the UK joining the European Union.  Economics of having cheaper fish available meant that the local economy had to adapt when the UK joined.  Post Brexit, the town has really been hit hard.  Locals still seem to be reeling and the town just does not look or feel prosperous.

We have walked the trails and been impressed by the rise and fall of the tides here.  Many of the boats here are adapted to sitting on the mud of the estuaries that feed the Milford Haven waterway (Dyfrffordd Aberdaugleddau in Welsh).

Hard to navigate at low tide!

Another large advantage of coming to this area is … we have friends close by! The owners of Lumina, a 47 foot Boreal, live in Wales and have a cottage on the coast, just a 45 minute drive from Milford Haven.

I bet there is a road trip in our future.  Until then, we will stay busy with boat jobs.

Comments

  1. Amazing. Missing you either way.

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