Denmark - 55° 35' 38" N 12° 40' 42" E

With the wind on our beam, we sailed along the south coast of Sweden and cut through the Falstrebo Canal from The Baltic to Öresund.

The canal is short but has a bridge obstructing the passage.
It's always nice to see it all the way open!

The canal has an interesting story.  During WW II, the Germans did not recognise the Swedish four-nautical-mile offshore fishing limit so, just for good measure, mined the waters up to three miles from the Swedish shore.  This caused problems for shipping around the Falstrebo Isthmus due to the shallow water.

So the Swedes built a canal! Great for us as it cut off some distance and we avoided the choppy waters that the shallow area around the isthmus is known for.

We saw FORESTS of wind turbines.  Lots of wind here, so endless electrical generation.

The Øresund Bridge is an impressive structure, together with the Øresund Tunnel, it connects
Denmark and Sweden by road.  We didn't sail under it, but quite close to it.

We had a great sail, very much appreciating the last little while in the calm waters.  Once back in The North Sea, we'll be contending with tides, currents, swells and waves once more. At the recommendation of a local, we opted against going all the way into Copenhagen and pulled into the wonderfully quaint harbour of Dragør.  Woo hoo, we are now in Denmark! 

Snug in Gamel Havn (old harbour)

Dragør is the most delightful town, a fishing and trading port founded in the 12th century. Today, the old town is beautifully preserved with yellow houses and red-tiled roofs with a scattering of thatch. Hollyhocks and roses grow along the walls giving it the look and feel of a town with UNESCO World Heritage status.  Interestingly, Dragør rescinded their nomination for UNESCO consideration due to concerns of over-tourism.  And for a town a mere 12km from Copenhagen, with its multiple daily cruise ships, this concern is valid!

Many of the buildings around the harbour are traditionally styled ... even though they aren't "old" by European standards. This one dates merely from 1784.

Dragør is big on geese.  For centuries, raising geese has been part of the town tradition.  The geese lived inside homes and roamed the town during the day.  There are even goose gates (think doggie doors) in fences in some of the older parts of town.  Things began to change when the ferry arrived (along with the Swedes - but that's another story!). The geese like to go to the beach but it was too dangerous for them to cross where the ferry came in.  And keeping geese under your kitchen table was probably starting to be considered a little unhygienic.   

The Goose Republic

So the geese were moved out to where they could freely roam the beach and the meadows.  Known as the Goose Republic,  it's a bit like a community garden - but for geese!  It is a collection of little sheds with groups of geese and chickens freely wandering about ... and taking themselves down to the beach!  

"Excuse us, we are off to the beach!"

The guest harbour was a snug little spot in the old harbour (as opposed to the ferry harbour or the new harbour!) with cafes and a fish shop.  Sean started chatting to a couple who were wandering along and we were beyond delighted when they invited us to their home for dinner.  No wonder 'our' Mary* loves Denmark!

Dragør - with Torben outside his home which was once a bakery

Torben and Karen-Lise's home is in the old town and was a bakery. We enjoyed the most delightful evening hearing about their grand adventures (they have travelled to all sorts of wonderful places and have cruised in Eastern Greenland and have a trip booked around Baffin Bay along both the Greenlandic and Canadian coasts.  There was a LOT to chat about!)

Karen-Lise and Torben were the most delightful hosts

Karen-Lise is the most beautiful knitter.  She had a different and stunning jumper on each time we saw them.  She introduced me to the glorious designs of Swedish designer Anne Ventzel.   I am now inspired to knit one of her jumpers.  When I mentioned that I had a ball of Cardiff cashmere (thanks Niklas!), she suggested a pattern for a Sophie Scarf and gave me the needles to complete the job. Karen-Lise, you are a legend!

One of Karen-Lise's gorgeous creations. 

Wandering around town with locals, you learn all sorts of interesting tit-bits.  We had noticed these black things on the windows of some of the houses.  Torben enlightened us of their purpose - they are called a gossip mirror or gadespejl. It allows you to see what's happening on the street from the comfort of your couch.  Big Brother before the television!

Many of the houses sported a gossip mirror - no secret rendez-vous here!

Now, remember that rescinded UNESCO consideration?  Dragør is a mere 12km from Copenhagen. And we have bikes.  So guess what we did?? Of course we jumped on our bikes to say hi to 'Our' Mary.  It was a great ride and we were totally taken by Copenhagen.  What a beautiful city!

Nyhavn, we can tie Chinook up here if we fancy!

No trip to Copenhagen is complete without a visit to The Little Mermaid!

The moat around the Kastellet, one of the best preserved fortresses in
Northern Europe - and it is still used today.  

The Kastellet

We could bring Chinook in here - but we would need to be VERY brave. 
It is tight and busy.

Another story about Dragør.  During WWII, Denmark was occupied by the Germans but signed an non-aggression pact.  This allowed the Danes to keep control over their domestic affairs and did not discriminate against the Jews.  Therefore, Danish Jews were not required to register assets, identify themselves, give up property or wear the yellow star despite being under German occupation.  

This all changed in 1943 when it began to feel like the Germans could be defeated.  Danish resistance increase and the Germans demanded that the German military courts must try any resistors.  The Danish government resigned rather than yield and the Germans declared martial law and took over the Danish military and police forces.  (Phew, that was a long preamble!)

The Germans then took the opportunity to round up all the Danish Jews.  The round-up was planned for 1 October because, being Jewish New Year, they thought everybody would be home.  But a naval attaché with a few morals, Georg Duckwitz, advised the Danes so most of the Jews went into hiding and the Germans found very few.  Over 7000 Jews were spirited across to Sweden and this is were Dragør comes in.  Over 700 were ferried to safety by fisherman from Dragør.  The last surviving boat, Elisabeth K571, bobs happily in the harbour and the museum is filled with great stories of the rescue.

Elisabeth K571

As well as being an interesting spot to explore inland, Dragør is also an convenient spot to bring aboard crew.  One of our good friends, Pat, was able to join us here.  We found out quickly that besides being great company, Pat has an excellent understanding of sail trim and loves to helm ... so much so that he earned a new nickname.

'Auto Pat' in his happy place.  

Next, we are off to the Kiel Canal!

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* The Queen of Denmark was once Mary Donaldson from Tasmania.  She met the Crown Prince Frederik in a pub during the Sydney Olympics.