The Burgess Shale Fossil Bed is a large deposit of Cambrian sea-creatures. Yes, this mountain top was once-upon-a-time, the seabed. The area is protected and can only be entered with a permit, or in our case, with a guide! Under a cloudy sky that was threatening rain, we met our Parks Canada guide, Amy, at 7am (groan) in Field. She was perky, chipper and managed to get us all in a good mood about trudging up nearly 800 vertical metres of mountain in what could have been a wet, cloudy day. We started up the trail and the lower slopes of Mount Stephen, working our way through the lush forest; it was quite spongy underfoot. A lot of moss and tiny lilies. This side of the Divide gets a lot more rain. And then... we started to climb. And climb... Along the edge of cliffs and up ridge lines, the trail switch-backing when it could. In the 3.6km, we gained over 800m; 200 of those in the last 300m! The weather had quietly eased off the...